Vatican Museums

Today we had 2:00 tickets for the Vatican Museums. We were going to try to see St. Peter's also but Johnny advised against trying to do so much in one day so we're going there bright and early tomorrow, well, maybe early. Johnny is often correct. The legs are getting achier as the days go on.

We decided to get the big breakfast since lunch wouldn't fit the schedule, so we went to a place advertising "American breakfast." What an American breakfast consists of is an "omelette" with nothing in it, french fries, salad, toast with no butter (this was at a bakery but our waitress said she had no butter) and cappuccino.

We had the bus route figured out so we actually arrived where we were supposed to. The buses are jam-packed usually and even though there are monitors in them, they fail to provide a list of stops. We were on only one bus where the monitor worked. Without a list, we have to count stops because from a standing position, it's impossible to read the bus stop signs.

When we arrived, we saw a security line that had to be 3-4 hours long. Surprisingly, there were lots of guards to tell us that if we already had tickets, we didn't have to stay with the masses. We did have to walk about a block or two to get to the beginning of the no-wait security line but we were turned away because we arrived at 12:30 but weren't allowed in until 1:30. Since the Colosseum people didn't care what time our tickets said, we figured the same would be true at the Vatican Museum. When we went back, they didn't even look at the time, so go figure.

To kill an hour, we went across the street to a cafe. All the guidebooks tell you not to do that because the cafes are expensive but we had little choice. There's no where else to go at that spot; plus, we needed the rest. We got tea and desserts which cost more than most of our meals, but we got to sit outside and people-watch. Lots of people-watching involves noticing hair color--multi-color is in although all pink and all purple are also popular.

Getting into the Museum wasn't too difficult but the crowds were overwhelming. Plus, early on there is a place where you're supposed to be able to choose which way to go but they had blocked that. There was really no choices throughout the museum--we just had to follow the crowd.

You see this dome in one of the first rooms.

Dome in Museo Pio Clementino

Every room has magnificent ceilings and floors. Plus, like every church we've seen, everything is clean. With these thousands of people going through, the cleaning crews must work all night, every night.  Here's a random ceiling and floor, for example:

We had bought the audioguides, but they weren't very helpful. We couldn't find the track numbers in the rooms and it was difficult to figure out which Gallerie we were in.  The crowds thinned out a little as we approached the Sistine Chapel and more after we left it. The Sistine Chapel experience was not the mob scene we expected. Crowded but not crushing.  Someone shouts "Silence" over the loudspeaker every few minutes and even says a prayer. You aren't supposed to take pictures in there but that didn't stop some of the people from taking selfies.  Speaking of selfie sticks, I take back what I said about them--they are really the best way to take pictures of ceilings and many people don't feel it necessary to include themselves in ceiling pictures. I had seen the Sistine Chapel years ago so seeing it now since the paint has been retouched was amazing. It is gorgeous and even with the crowds, you feel you see most of it, much easier than when it was faded.

What is more surprising is the number of babies who apparently want to tour Rome. In the Sistine Chapel, we were next to a child in a stroller. We were afraid she would be crushed by the crowd but she didn't even cry...even when Lola was trying to steal her.  Just a joke--we've been here for awhile now and she hasn't stolen a single baby, although she's been tempted by many.

 

Like the Louvre, you can't see the Vatican Museums in one trip. On the way out, you have this lovely view:

Tonight we ate at a Tuscany restaurant close by the apartment. Lola claims she had the best gnocchi she ever ate and I had rabbit in white wine sauce. I had chocolate cake for dessert but Lola made the better choice, cookies with Vin Santo. Delicious.

This apartment is in a great location--loads of restaurants within about 3 streets, and the best gelato place in town, Fridgidarium. It is always packed. The street is "pedestrian only" but it seems motorcycles don't have to follow that rule.  The "streets" are actually alleys so when cars turn on them, you have to get to one side. In fact, every time we cross a street anywhere, we are thrilled to make it to the other side.